Biodynamic continues to reign~ Emidio Pepe

Emidio Pepe ~Abruzzo

Really late posting!

Such a privilege and honor to host Emidio Pepe masterclass in Osteria Mozza Singpore with Senor Emidio Pepe himself present for the tasting. I was such an amateur when come to Abruzzi- Montepulciano wines, as always I make an assumption that these wines are big and non-interesting. Till last week, my eyes are open to these remarkable “terroir” driven Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

Emidio Pepe winery located in northern part of Abruzzo nearby Torano hills, producing only 8.5 hectares of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and 3.5 hectares of Trebbiano. Practicing biodynamic viticulture in his wines, he uses no chemical but only sulphur and copper water into his lands.

All Montepulciano are de-stemmed by hands, hand crushed and let ferment in tub with natural yeast - explained Chiara, granddaughter of Emidio Pepe (Mr.Pepe speaks no Americano). The wines are non filtered in cellaring. These bottles then decanted and hand labeled by he rgrandmatoher Rosa Pepe.

We tasted a variety of vintages that afternoon, some old vintages as early as 1974.  I now could recalled I’ve sold his vintages 2000 before in Mozza. I must say the wines shows elegant, warm characters and throughout consistency.

Va Bene!

We were served with Trebbiano to start followed by variety of vintages of Montepulciano.

Trebbiano 2010

His trebbiano was cloudy yellow in color with little CO2 present in the glass. Pretty complex nose with pineapple, nectarine, cider aromas, chalky and some candy flavors. Medium body with ripe acidity and Mr.Pepe said it will be good to serve it with brodo( soups in italian).

"serve Trebbiano straight into ice for 5 mins and not to chill in fridge, you only put dead thigns in fridge"- Emidio Pepe

Even if the Trebbiano was kept straight, the cork is always wet because of the CO2 present in the wines and malolactic fermentation happens in the bottle. Many producers uses oak in Italy to make their wines ready to be drink but we don't, after 10 years the wines will be ready not the same style as of COS or Foradori.

Montepulciano 2005

Straight from the bottle with no decanting! 

Garnet red, pretty barnyard smell, slightly tight at the moment. Black and blue fruits, dried herbs of rosemary, burnt leather and sweet baking spices. very complex palates, ripe red fruits, long finishing, high acid and high tannins. alcohol is medium + with lots of spices.

Montepulciano 2003 -  great warm vintage

Complex nose, mixed of black and red ripe fruits, black plums. Silky tannins, sweeet spices,cinnamon, bellpepper,licorice with medium + tannins and acidity.

Montepulciano 2001 - more powerful more wild

Barnyard and rustic, red currant and red peppers. Some coffee beans touch too. Elegant finish with smooth tannins, rounder and ready to drink!

Montepuulciano 2000 - more feminine vintage, classic vintage

Nose of cured meats, old leather, gamey red cherrries, capsicum and cedar wood. Long finishing on plaate with medium+ acid and tannins. Need ageing. Keep

Montepulciano1994

Sour berries notes, sour red frutis, raspberries, red plums. Touch of mushroom and cloves. On the palate has high volatile acidity but with silky finishing.

Montepulciano 1984

Black tea, elegant ripe juicy red berries. Lively body, good strcture, tannins is integrated. Beautiful stuff.

Montepulciano 1975 - one of the best vintage in Abruzzo

Black tea like character (like chinese pu-erh) dried red fruits. Longevity on finish with volatile acidity.

P/S - they do magnum bottles too but wines are from 2 normal aging bottles poured into it.

wine tasted in Osteria Mozza Singapore 11 Dec 2013

 Lauri Vainio- Wine Director Osteria&Pizzeria Mozza chatting with Mr. Emidio Pepe

Edmund Liew, Emidio and Me :)

Route to grower champagne

FEW RANDOM GROWER CHAMPAGNE TASTED

Just about a month ago, I have a chance to taste some of the finest small grower champagne in 1 of the prestigious local merchant here in Singapore. Each of the producer has their own vineyards, has their own stories to tell, some family business, some grower even never leave their winery/vineyards before. The good things about this few RM (Recoltant-Manipulant) is they maintain the quality of their own grapes, grow their own and make their own champagne in small quantities but good qualities. This is a movement towards quality champagne (like burgundy) slowly denying what the big houses can do all this while.

Champagne Marie-Courtin, the producer named the champagne house after his grandmother. 1 of the small grower in Aube, alongside with Jacques Lassaigne and to name a few, produced great blanc de noirs, blanc de blancs and their house cuvee. Many centuries ago, Aube is the town where grapes are harvested and sold to Reims for blending in big champagne houses.  Marie Courtin Resonance made of 100% pinot noir from 2008 vintage(left in pics) crafted another level of elegancy and eccentric acid champagne to start as aperitif or drink all day. Blanc de blancs (not in pics) are in depth and longer finishing, beat many big commercial champagne houses. Say goodbye to NM!

Pretty proud to say that the wine list in the restaurant that I'm working for right now, we featured mainly small grower champagne at an affordable price.


Can't say no to bubbles.
Han

Domaine de la Pinte Chateau Chalon 2004, Jura

Domaine de la Pinte Chateau Chalon AOC 2004

100% Savagnin

Deep orange color, oxidative, almond like yet citrusy aromas. Deep intensity, high concentration.

On the palate, soft texture, medium plus body, soft tannins and medium plus acidity. Long finishing, a salty tang on the mid palate,a very dry white like manzanilla sherry style.

Region- Jura

Appellation- Chateau Chalon

Also known as yellow wine (vin jaune), made of 100% Savagnin and aged for 6 years and 3 months before release. It is also bottle in special bottle size 62cl or 620ml called clavelin. Legend said it is the amount of wine left in casks after 6 years and 3 months ageing. This wine is not fortified, the casks is not filled up, encouraging a film of yeast (voile) to develop on the surface. Those yeast are like flor' which present in sherry. Thus explain the wine is oxidative style.

p/s chateau chalon is good with asian curry, it has a certain similiarlity in the wine and curry, some scientific term which I cant recall...:) 

tasted on 30 May

H

Romano Levi Grappa

Romano Levi Grappa

The most expensive grappa in town! (Singapore)

Been regarded as one of the best and rare grappa of the world! The late Mr. Romano Levi handcrafted his grappa from distilling to even drawing the label. Romano only bottles his grappa when he has time to draw his labels. Yes, each and every labels of his grappa is by his own writing and paperwork! This make it even more exclusive and fetching a higher price when he passed away about 2 years ago.

The company who take over his legacy decided to keep the original recipes and drawings, only printing has been done to his non-vintage blend grappa. The grappa that I had for this tasting is a blend from 2005-2012. Using only the pomace from the best of Barolo, Barbaresco and Muscat from Piemonte region.

The master distiller produces more than 10 or more grappas, some infused with local herbs and ingredient. You may find one or more of his grappa was bottle with fresh herbs like rosemary or cammomile in it. (more to come- as I carried 9 of his grappas in Osteria Mozza)

Powerfully refined, perfume, floral, very aromatic grappa for the first sniff, on the palate it was complicated taste, elegant, many layers and plots of aromas and flavors. It really stays more than 2 mins in moi mouth! totally different class from other distiller, also beat my favorite Nonino grappa.

Romano Levi is still alive...

H

Tasted 29 April

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2010~

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2010

This elegant red wines has tricked me twice n a year!  First time was in a blind tasting with the sommeliers in DB Bistro (courtesy of Mr.Rajeshwaran Gopal), second was in the recent Malaysia Champions reselection for World Best Sommelier Competition this March! What a tricky wine that my guess it was a fine Burgundy wines, Chambolle/Morey because of the elegancy! Second try in the competition, probably because of pressure and time constrain, I thought it was a burgundian pinot noir / bourgogne because of its fruits forward and juiciness..

I might be wrong in guessing game but I'm sure this is a very good wine. Superb plum and red cherry character, elegance and smooth tannins and finishing. Good mineral chacracter too as later that I found out that Mr. Marcel planted his wine on granite soils.

Great wine to drink on its own or with some cold cut meat.

Han

Foradori SGARZON Teroldego 2010~

Foradori Sgarzon Teroldego 2010

Teroldego, the least Italian known grape varietal, pretty funky notes at first and hard to appreciate.
But this grape variety is being well taken care of Foradori, as they are biodynamic producer, on their hands, they make a pretty light  but complex and easy drinking Teroldego.

On the nose, funky character, touch of smoke and wet forest floor character. Touch of cold raspberry like with many other dried herbs character. On the palate, spicy light red fruits wine and medium acidity. Pretty good finishing and most importantly is a good wine to pair with some game dishes as well as tomato based pasta.

p/s- It is an unfiltered wine. This wine comes from Teroldego indigenous grape from Trentino, north-east Italy.